This June, the MACMA team put our backpacks on and went to explore some landscapes, towns and greenways of the Marina Alta. This experience is designed to do the first part with the stretch and walking and the second by bike or walking and discover the history of the railway that connected our region. An itinerary that combines the landscapes with the culture, heritage and gastronomy of our region.
As the experience progresses, we will reveal the history and curiosities of the towns and landscapes we have visited on this excursion, we hope you enjoy it a lot.
A LITTLE HISTORY. We know where we come from to decide where we are going.
At the end of the 19th century, the railway, as a means of transport, was already fully developed in Europe. Our region was not left behind, since the educated and dynamic bourgeoisie that formed the Dianense society of the time had the interest and the means to promote it.
This is because long before the tourism explosion, the Marina Alta already had a fairly dynamic economy linked, above all, to the trade in raisins and other agricultural products.
As is known, the port of Dénia connected with various destinations, both on the peninsula and abroad, not only with British ports, but also those in the USA and Canada.
But in order to export, both the goods and the people who worked in their cultivation and trade had to arrive by land. For this reason, the need for a railway became apparent.
First, the line connecting Dénia with Carcaixent and, therefore, with Valencia was built. This line began to be built in 1884, although it was not until 1915 that it was inaugurated. Later, branches and stations were expanded and the connection with other networks and, consequently, with the rest of the territory was achieved. The fact is that, more than a century ago, from Dénia you could, with connections, reach Bilbao or Zaragoza.
On the other hand, and in a southerly direction, there was also a connection with Alicante with the so-called Trenet de la Marina.
The Trenet de la Marina connected several towns on the coast of the Marina Alta, such as Dénia, Xàbia, Teulada and Calp, among others. This network of suburban trains, initially designed and created for agricultural activity, facilitated the mobility of the inhabitants and tourism, which was beginning to arrive in the region in search of sun and sea. Dénia therefore served as a connection hub for travelers who wanted to go from Alicante to Valencia.
The railway was of great importance for the local and social economy of the region. It allowed the commercialization of agricultural products, especially oranges, which were one of the main crops in the area. In addition, the transport of goods such as oil and grapes was also greatly facilitated by this means of transport.
THE TRAIN ARRIVES AT THE PORT DOCKS
Now that Dénia was a prosperous and modern city, where people, goods, mail and news arrived in the city without hindrance, it was necessary for the train to also reach the docks of the port, which at the time transported tons and tons of our products to international destinations in Europe and America.
Perhaps these new branches within the port arrived a little late. In 1906 Dénia had begun to suffer the first symptoms of economic crisis, caused by agricultural pests and competition from other countries, although it still maintained all the splendor inherited from the great peak it experienced in the last part of the 19th century, thanks to the raisin trade.
In the first decade of the 20th century, the city began to decline. Phylloxera and mildew, a disease that plagued the vines, endangered the agricultural sector, which was also threatened by raisins from Corinth, in Greece.
In any case, in 1933 the train finally arrived at the Port of Dénia and over the years the network was expanded inside its facilities. The tracks were extended towards the new Martell dock in the mid-1940s and in the 1950s the Cemesa company used them to export cement by ship to Egypt. The last train entered the port premises in 1968 for the filming of the film Krakatoa.
At the same time, late Francoist Spain was beginning to be a very popular destination in Europe and tourism became a very important driver of the economy of our region.
Paradoxically, the arrival of tourists led to a marked decline in rail transport. The causes were the development of the road network and a great lack of investment that led to the closure of lines, until they disappeared when on February 10, 1974 the last train from Gandia made its final entry into the Dénia terminal.
The Trenet, which was the Marina Alta's gateway to the world, became just a memory of a bygone era.
THE IMPORTANCE OF THE NARROW PATH
The terrain of the Marina Alta, which is quite steep and runs between mountains and stretches of coast, as well as reasons for economic savings, determined that the type of narrow gauge was chosen, with a different and smaller width than that used in the rest of Europe (which would ultimately cause all of Spain to be isolated from the continent with important historical, political and geostrategic implications during World War II).
If the European gauge had been chosen, things would possibly have been different, but although this possibility had been studied since 1913, the choice of narrow gauge determined the future of this railway line.
PRESENT: WE DON'T HAVE A TRAIN BUT WE HAVE A TRAM
It is clear that the TRAM we have now and which connects Dénia with Alicante (with transfers) does not meet the need for a dynamic and modern railway line that allows the mobility of workers and tourists, shortening travel times between our region and the administrative capital on which we depend and facilitating arrival at the airports and high-speed stations of Alicante and Valencia.
But today we don't want to complain, we prefer to make a virtue of necessity and propose two routes or two excursions that, in a way following the old train route, allow us to get to know the Marina Alta and its corners.
We must not forget that at one time the railway was a key piece in the development of the region, and although the railway network is no longer operational, its legacy continues to be an important part of our collective imagination.
From this memory of the old railway comes the current TRAM, which connects Dénia with Alicante, although with a transfer in Benidorm.
Today it is managed by the company TRAM Metropolità d'Alacant, having previously been successively managed by Renfe, FEVE and Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat. It is not truly a railway, the TRAM is a hybrid transport system that combines the surface tram and the light rail.
Although its layout and spirit are the same as when it was inaugurated in 1915, this new period has been characterized by the renovation of the facilities and their adaptation to the new social reality of the towns through which the Marina train runs.
On January 16, 2023, the section between Gata de Gorgos and Dénia of Line 9 of the Alicante TRAM (Benidorm-Dénia) entered service, thus completing the modernization process of this line.
Before we delve into the proposed itineraries, we want to talk to you about two initiatives that took place in the second half of the 20th century and that we cannot fail to mention, because they show the role that rail transport can play for both tourist and public service uses.
- We are talking about the Limón Express, the first tourist train in Spain, promoted by a British citizen, which ran between Benidorm and Gata de Gorgos between 1971 and 2005.
- Also the Trensnochador which since 1988 has provided nighttime coverage to nightclubs and leisure areas during the summer months to prevent young people from taking cars.
PROPOSED DAYS. Step by step we are making our way.
It should be noted that this experience has two different itineraries. The first travels through the towns and landscapes through which the TRAM passes and the second travels along the old railway line that connected the region to Gandia.
Blue Route - La Marina Alta in Tram
We start in Dénia , as the city continues to be a point of reference for the history of the railway in the Marina Alta. Although the train line as our grandparents knew it no longer exists, the current Tram stops in the towns where that train used to run.
This route is ideal for families, especially with older children, who will appreciate the comfort of the modern TRAM carriages.
We will take our ticket at the Dénia Station, this station occupies the same space as the old train station, so entering it is an immediate reminder of the past. In fact, the old Dénia train station is the most prominent building on the entire railway line. Today it houses the Toy Museum dedicated to the city's toy tradition and is complete with an Exhibition Hall.
Before getting on the TRAM, as a curiosity, note that very close to the Station is the main artery of the city, the Marqués de Campo Street , and the history of the railway in Dénia is closely linked to this noble family that also owned the Compañía del Norte , which was nationalized in 1941 and was finally integrated into the state entity FEVE, Ferrocarriles de Vía Estrecha.
Dénia has three stops: the main one, which we have talked about so far, the second one in Bosc de Diana, a large space dedicated to a public park, still under development, but which will serve as a recreation area for young and old in this area of the city, and the stop in La Pedrera Vessanes , a town where the second public hospital of reference in the city is located. Although in this article we focus on the tourist aspect of the TRAM route, we must not forget that it constitutes a tool for structuring the territory and a true public transport system, with everything that this name means for the region.
But we continue to enjoy the trip and the scenery!
Leaving Dénia, our route will take us to other towns in the Marina Alta. We will first stop in La Xara , a young town, about two hundred years old, but picturesque and charming where we find several points of interest. Whether you are a tourist or if you go there for other reasons, you will enjoy walking through its streets to visit the Rentador de la Xara , the Plaza de la Palmera, the Plaza del Garrofer or rest on the promenade of Joan Baptista Basset.
After a short walk through La Xara, go back up the section, which in 7 minutes will take you to Gata de Gorgos . Gata is a town with a very long history that dates back to prehistory, where settlements of organized human groups have already been identified.
In any case, today the town is known for its great tradition of artisanal crafts, basically tin. It has shops where the tradition of this artisanal product is still maintained. It is picturesque to see the objects displayed outside the shops, which is a great attraction for tourists and locals who want to buy garden furniture, carpets, baskets, espadrilles or hats. It is worth buying some of these objects for their quality and durability.
Teulada will be the next stop on our short tour and it will take us 12 minutes by TRAM to get there. There we suggest you stop and take the opportunity to taste some of the local wines at any of the establishments that offer tasting and pairing experiences of local wines with local products.
The TRAM also stops in Benissa , which is 4 minutes from the previous stop. In Benissa we will take the opportunity to make a cultural visit. If you want to know part of the history of this destination, you cannot miss visiting the Casa Abargues Museum. It is a palatial house from the 18th-19th centuries that perfectly preserves each of the rooms with objects from the period. It is a way to travel in time and discover how the nobles lived at that time.
Calp will be the last proposal on this itinerary. The TRAM continues its route through the Marina Baixa until it reaches Benidorm, but for today we will stop in Calp and enjoy the views of the Natural Park of the Penyal d'Ifac while tasting some typical recipes in its port. The Calp llauna, for example, a simple dish made mainly with fish from the bay, shrimp and tomatoes, a senyoret rice or the blanquet , which is a seafood dish based on white fish.
If you're not that hungry, some of the cocas made in a wood-fired oven, which can be accompanied by local grapes, or a plate of white shrimp from Calpe, served with wines from the Marina Alta , will be the perfect ending to your excursion.
Green Route - Iron Trails. The Dénia al Verger Greenway
This second itinerary will appeal to children and cycling enthusiasts. It is about 6.5 km of easy route, on compacted dirt paths and some paved sections.
The Dénia Greenway, on the old FEVE Carcaixent-Dénia railway line, crosses a sea of orange trees parallel to the coast. The old road is a pleasant route to go to the beach of Les Marines, neighboring towns or continue to the Marjal Natural Park. You will find the exact coordinates in this link .
We suggest you do it by bike, which will take you about 35 minutes, but of course it can also be done on foot, with an estimated duration of 1.40 hours. In fact, you can dedicate two different days to it and do it both ways. The immersion in nature and the opportunity to breathe in the scent of orange, carob and almond trees, it is well worth it.
The Dénia Greenway has rest areas, viewpoints and furniture for physical exercise.
Don't think that this is an isolated itinerary, it is part of several initiatives to recover train tracks to make cycle tourism routes. This old railway has other sections recovered as a greenway, such as the one in La Safor, south of Gandia, and new sections between Carcaixent and Tavernes de la Valldigna with the name of Via Verda de L'Antic Trenet.
Returning to our route today, you will see that it is a pleasant route that leads from Dénia to near El Verger , a town where we can visit the old station building. However, if you want to extend the route, you have the option of continuing to the Marjal Pego-Oliva Natural Park , arriving in Oliva and connecting with another section of the Greenway recovered from the old railway line, the Safor Greenway, with a 7 km itinerary.
As we have mentioned, the Dénia Greenway runs along the southern end of the extinct Carcaixent-Dénia railway line. The start is at Partida Negrals. As a reference to arrive, both on foot and by car, we take Plaça Cholet, from there we head along the Camí Vell de Gandia towards Els Poblets. When we reach a garden centre, we turn left. Immediately we find signs indicating the start of the route.
You must start at the rest area located at km 0 of the route. Follow the signs across two wooden walkways and, crossing a field of palm trees, you will arrive at a country house.
The entire route reminds us that we are taking the same route that the train used to take. A few km further on, in another rest area, there is an interesting panel dedicated to the history of the railway and the different types of machines that existed. Likewise, all along the way you will find stately homes that remind us of the city's prosperous past.
The greenway crosses at level with paved rural roads, but if you feel like it you can momentarily leave the main road and reach the sea through several rural roads perpendicular to our route.
Continuing along the Greenway, we propose a game. It may go unnoticed, but if we look carefully we will find the remains of the old gatekeeper's box. We encourage you to try to find the metal plaque that still marks the kilometer point where it was located.
When you have completed approximately half of the route, you will find a new wooden footbridge that will allow you to cross the Barranc de l'Alter ravine . Once here, sit down and look around you, everything you see has a reason for being and a history linked to the railway, such as the chimney of a furnace, which was used in the production of raisins that were later transported in the train's freight cars.
Another vestige of the railway is the Baixador del Palmar, a covered point that will come in handy for shelter and to take out the sandwich that you are probably carrying in your backpack. After breakfast, you cannot leave without reading the information panels that explain, with first-hand accounts, the hard job of a train driver, at a time when nothing was mechanized or computerized like it is today. One panel tells us about the workers and another tells us about who the train users were in our region during the first half of the 20th century.
Continue the route towards the Serra de Segària , which you will see on the horizon and will serve as a reference point. Further on you will find a metal footbridge that allows you to cross the Alberca river and is mounted on the original stone steps. From here on, pay attention, as this is a part of the route shared with vehicles.
If you are interested in learning about the fauna and flora of the area, look for the explanatory panel next to the bridge. Continue on your way and further on, in the rest area that ends the route, you will also find explanations about the connection with the Via Verda de La Safor through the La Marjal Natural Park, an interesting 35 km flat route along a bike path and rural paths in La Marjal.
Although our Greenway as such ends here, we suggest you continue a little further, continuing along the route of the old railway, now converted into a paved road, until reaching, in just 1 km, El Verger, where we find the old station after crossing the bridge over the Girona River . The station, which was used as a school and library during part of the 20th century, today houses a local police depot, but maintains its characteristic exterior appearance as a railway station.
You've arrived! Take the opportunity to visit the town of El Verger, where you will find numerous establishments where you can gain strength with a typical breakfast, well-deserved after completing your route. If you like our proposal, you will find more information in this link .
*This experience is designed to be done in two days, either consecutively or on two different days. The MACMA team proposes routes, spaces and buildings to visit, but each person can adapt the experience to their abilities, physical resistance and interests. If you want more information or elements to visit in each town, you can enter the website of Descobrim la Marina Alta and adapt the experience to your tastes with the backpack.